Meaning 'good' in Sicilian dialect, Cafe Bedda is an unpretentious Italian eatery: all well-priced wines, home-style Sicilian dishes and helpful, knowledgeable service. The cute little space is simply styled with chequered tiles, bare tables and sweeping Italiano landscapes on the wall. With this laidback setting and authentic food, it's the sort of place that many would be more than happy to call their local - somewhere where one can go to sip Italian beverages, nibble on traditional pizzas and Sicilian-style dishes, and perhaps flirt lightly with a charming Italian waiter or two.
Open: 5,30 pm - 10,30 pm on tue-wed-thu-fri-sat-sun
Cafe, Italian and Pizza
Entree: $6-$8
Mains: $17-$26
Dessert: $3-$8
Payment accepted: MasterCard and Visa
Licensed. Wine is available by the glass.
This venue accepts bookings. It is advisable to make a reservation ahead of time.
Seats 48
Outside dining area
Take-away available
REVIEW:
In a shopfront high on the hill in Northcote sits Cafe Bedda, a very interesting 'cucina Siciliana'. You could be forgiven for thinking you are sitting in a shopfront in Palermo. The attentive, and somewhat entertaining, service from the waiters is more welcome than intrusive (particularly from the kids), and the food is what you love to find at your local italian eatery, but with a twist. Tasty food, simply prepared. The pizza's are what Melburnians are coming to expect: good thin crusts, topped just right and with a wide selection of choices. The 'Beduzza' with tomato, garlic, oregano, olives, anchovies, capers and parmigiano is done lightly and even had a hint of lemon juice sqeezed at the last minute. The locals are obviously aware of the pizze as they steadily drop in to collect their take away versions. A small list of main and desserts provided some lovely dishes including the gnocci gongonzola and the fish couscous on our visit - both wonderful. And with the famous scene from the Godfather, who could go past the ricotta filled canoli for dessert. The wine list is small but contains contemprary italians, and most available by the glass. And like the place itself, prices were also friendly.
I'm still not so sure about what I saw as the slightly wolfish attentions of the younger bloke on the floor who sidled over to ask my wife whether she could identify the heat-wilted fronds of mustardy greens that curl between her pile of springy gnocchi flecked with chilli (indeed she could - cime di rapa).
At least he didn't come over brandishing an oversized pepper grinder.
With the rest of the table otherwise entertained, I sink into a thin and rather undistinguished glass of Messina beer from Sicily and contemplate a dish of fish cus cus - spelt in the Sicilian manner - that also hails from the island. This is far, far better. Large, beautifully cooked hunks of salmon, blue eye and dory flake apart alongside a few prawns and mussels. These top a stock-wet bed of fine semolina grains flecked with little pieces of almond - a combination that nods to the Arab influences pre-dating the Norman capture of Sicily at the start of the second millennium.
The traditional flavours of Sicily are also brandished by the best dessert here - pancakes stuffed with a lemon custard flavoured with Sicily's signature liqueur, Limoncello. These are served with a pistachio ice-cream that has a distinct marzipan note. Tonight there's also a small choice of ice-creams and a steamed pudding that's accompanied by pear slices and a light custard.
All these dishes come from the specials board from whence most people order. That is if they aren't grazing on pizzas or side dishes from Bedda's short menu. Winning picks include baccala fritters and little fennel and pork chipolatas.
The pizzas are also rightfully popular. These big, thin discs are suitably heat blasted, puffed slightly at the edges and sensibly topped without ever losing sight of the dough. The combination of Italian chicory leaves with asiago cheese and thin slices of lemon, adding a tartness that moderates the bitterness of the stalky cicoria, has become something of a modern pizza classic around Melbourne. The experts suggest removing the lemon slices before eating but this is not compulsory.
Many of the pizzas also pay homage to Italy's big island. The Messina combines tuna, green olives, capers and lemon; the Etna is predictably fiery with hot salami and red peppers; the one with that peculiarly Sicilian pizza topping of egg and peas takes its name from a province of Messina.
There's even one called "bedduzza" - a term of endearment derived from "bedda", the Sicilian word for "beautiful" or "bella".
That's also a fitting word to describe Cafe Bedda - this perfect little local Italian with old-style service and approachable and interesting food.
ACCORDING to the book of RSL comedians' stereotypes, there are two types of Italian waiters. One appears to love your children; the other appears to want to love your wife. Both appear on the night we visit Cafe Bedda.
This smart little Italian cafe in Northcote, with its checkerboard floor, artwork and simple wooden tables, has distinct Sicilian leanings. Leanings that go right down to the salt from Trapani on each table.
But back to the family-friendly service. The two youngest members of our table are entranced by the onomatopoeic Three Stooges patter of waiter Aldo, whose performance and professionalism in the face of cawing small children, who rapidly become obsessive fans capable of breaking restraining orders for stalking, was alone enough to make this evening memorable.
